Tatev monastery was founded in the IX^th century  and was the political center of the Syunik principality. In the X^th century the population of the monastery was around 1,000 people. Stepanos Obelyan, an Armenian historian of the XIV^th century called Tatev “the perl of Syunik”.

In the XIV-XV cc. Tatev was one of the biggest and most important center of science, education, literature and art of Armenia. The famous school of Armenian miniature was founded in Tatev those times.

In the yard of the monastery you will find an 8-meter-tall pillar, made os small stones. This pillar is a unique work of Armenian architectural and engineering art. It survived hundreds of years of earthquakes and the strong earthquake of 1931, that caused severe destruction to the buildings of Tatev, because it’s swinging. Even a mere touch of hand can cause the pillar to tilt. The pillar used to warn the dwellers of the monastery of coming earthquake or approaching enemy forces.

You may take a virtual 3D tour to Tatev Monastery here (need to download Vizerra 3D client) or watch it on YouTube

All Armenian cultural and religious monuments that are located far from main roads of Turkey are not being destroyed, but used as habitations and cattlesheds. According to Samvel Karapetyan, the chairman of the “Era” humane society and historian, the church of St.Bartholomew in Turkey, turned into a military base, can be an example of such attitude. Approaching and taking pictures of this church is obviously prohibited. To the North of the Ani town, the ancient capital of Armenia, situated now on the Turkish territory, Armenian monuments are being slowly destroyed by Turkish shepherds without any attention paid by the government to safeguarding of the antiquities.

In contrast to Turkey, Iran treats Armenian heritage differently. Iran is the only country bordering Armenia which keeps Armenian monuments under the government protection. Not so long ago a brochure listing locations of most of the Armenian churches in Iran (exactly 400 churches) was issued in Iran. It says that “the nation that creates culture is able to respect culture of another nation”.  

UNESCO intends to take over the protection of the Armenian churches and some other architectural structures, including St.Fadeus and St.Stepanos monasteries and “Tsor-Tsora” church. The president of Iran took personal care of including St.Fadeus monastery in the list of UNESCO protected monuments.

Mr.Karapetyan reminded that historical monuments located on the territories adjacent to the Mountainous Karabakh are in a very poor condition, as well as in Armenia. Armenia suggested to include the Noravank complex into the UNESCO list. However the UNESCO committee failed to visit Noravank churches – a cafe on the approach to them “blocked” its way. “UNESCO has very strict rules and conditions. We are waisting our time here.” said the UNESCO representatives. Same problem threats the Akhpat church. Though it is already under UNESCO protection, it can be excluded from the list, because the head of the local administration, pursuing his personal interests, decided to build a restaurant under the walls of the fortress.

It is difficult to exaggerate the indifference of the Armenian government to protection of the national heritage. Armenian delegation remained indifferent to the opening of the “restored” Armenian “Surb Khach Akhtamar” church of the V^th century in Turkey, where Turkish authorities changed its name to erase all traits and evidence of the Turkish lands being Armenian before. Armenian government does not pay due attention to the renaming and rebuilding of the Armenian churches in Turkey and Azerbaijan and the “georgianization” of Armenian churches in Georgia…

This is a half desolate village, whose inhabitants ascend here only for the warm period of the year, and descend to their urban homes near Yerevan, the capital of Armenia, in winter. There are just a couple of dozens of houses here, a destroyed chapel and… a unique church Surb Maryam Astvatsatsin, which means St. Mary.

This is a church of a sober cupola hall, build from dark-grey basalt in 1213 with a gavit, vestibule, built in 1221, and two chapels erected on its roof. It is a very beautiful complex, unlike any other by its architecture. The complex was built at the behest of Mamakhatun, wife of Prince Vache Vachutian, and the architect, according to an inscription on a column of the gavit, was the priest Aghbayrik.  

A charming view has the church in the night.

Near the church, on the other side of the river gorge one can see a huge radio-telescope, the biggest telescope of this kind in the former Soviet Union. By the telescope there is a huge mirror plate, an unfinished solar power station. 

In the western part of the village one can find the remains of a Bronze Age cyclopean fort. A secret passage to the nearest water source was found by the fort.

Nature here is very beautiful! The Ararat Valley dominated by the Ararat is spread out before the eyes in the south and Ara Mount rests peacefully in the east. But there’s one more thing, which is worth visiting this place – stars above the Aragats… In the clear night it seems like stretching your arm you will inevitably touch the stars.

Each province is divided further into communities, which stand for municipalities. It can be urban or rural communities. In total there are about 915 communities, 49 of which are urban. Yerevan has no communities, it’s itself is also a community and is divided into 12 districts.

So what are the 10 provinces of Armenia and what each of them is known for?

Let’s shortly mention the capital city Yerevan. It is situated in the center-west of the country in the north-eastern extremity of the Ararat Valley. Yerevan is the largest city in Armenia, inhabiting about 1/3 of the total population of Armenia, which is over 1 million people. It used to be a small city, but grew fast in the Soviet time. There’s a legend, a joke or truth that Yerevan grew to 1 million due to construction of the Yerevan underground system. When subway was built in Tbilisi, the capital of Georgia, Armenia couldn’t help getting it in Yerevan (“Tbilisi was faster to get it, so we must do our best to catch up”). But there was a serious obstacle for catching up with Tbilisi – population. There was a rule that an underground can be built only in cities with population more than 1 million. And then Yerevan executives started an urbanization program, attracting people from provinces  to Yerevan. Thus it grew to 1 million and the underground system was built and has 2 branches and 10 stations.  

The provinces, marz’es, of Armenia are: Aragatsotn, Ararat, Armavir, Gegharkunik, Kotayk, Lori, Shirak, Syunik, Tavush and Vayotz Dzor. The biggest by population is Shirak, and by area – Gegharkunik.

But let’s first say a couple of words about Aragatsotn marz. This is the region, where the highest and the most beautiful mountain of the present-day Armenia, Aragats, is situated (Aragatsotn means “the foot of Aragats”) and this is the greatest natural attraction of Armenia! Several areas and spots of petroglyphs, stone carvings by primitive man, were found in the area. So if you find yourself in Armenia, you should by all means visit Aragats. To explore the area I recommend staying in SOAr’s b&b’s.

Shirak marz, a namesake of the previous president of France, Jacques Chirac , is situated in the north-west of the country, bordering Georgia and Turkey. The capital of Shirak, Gyumri, is the second largest city in Armenia and the victim of the Armenian earthquake of 1988. There are many churches and the Urartian citadel and cemetery. On the Turkish border one can have a look at the ancient Armenian capital Ani.

Gegharkunik marz is in the North-East of the country, bordering Azerbaijan. The main attraction of the region is Lake Sevan, a big mountainous fresh lake that occupies 5% of the country’s territory. Sevan’s water has a very beautiful marine color, and Sevan’s banks carry many beautiful churches.

Syunik marz is the southernmost province of Armenia, bordering, Iran and Azerbaijan’s exclave Nakhichevan. This region has one of the most stunning scenery and some of the most popular tourist attractions. Tatev monastery, situated here, is one of the biggest complexes in Armenia. Another great sightseeing destination is Karahundj, the Armenian Stonehenge-like ancient stone observatory. Syunik marz is the richest area for petroglyphs.

Lori marz, situated on the North of the country and bordering Georgia, is the home to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Haghpat and Sanahin, as well as to the well-preserved Akhtala and lovely Kober monasteries and marvelous landscapes.

Tavush marz is the northeastern province of Armenia, bordering Georgia and Azerbaijan. This is one of the most beautiful corners of Armenia, the most covered with thick forests mountainuos area. It is sprinkled with beautifully sited churches, monasteries and fortresses. The most known of them are Haghartsin and Goshavank. There are a lot of b&b’s and hotels to stay, but I would recommend Apaga’s base.

Vayots Dzor marz lies in the south-east of the country, bordering Azerbaijan on both east and west sides. It’s one of the most historically interested areas of Armenia. Sparsely populated, Vayots Dzor is stuffed with medieval churches, monasteries, forts, caves as well as remains of Bronze and early Iron Age. The most favourite destinations are Noravank monastery, Magil cave, Mozrovi cave, Areni church and Smbataberd fort.

Ararat marz named after the Mount Ararat is bordering Turkey along the Arax river and contains the Ararat Valley, dominated by Mount Ararat. It’s a plane and agriculturally rich, but very hot valley. However, the province includes also a very green and nice area on the other side, which is mostly protected within the bounds of the Khosrov Forest State Reserve. The most known attractions here are Khor Virap monastery with a stunning view on Ararat, and ruins of the ancient Armenian capital city Dvin.

Kotayk marz is situated in the center of the country. It contains Geghama range in the east, with areas rich of petroglyphs, Ara mountain and beautiful Azat river gorge in the south. The latter is famous for Garni temple and Geghard monastery. Kotayk province is home to the Armenian and Soviet Olympic ski resort Tsakhkadzor. Besides these popular destination it abounds many other churches, monasteries and forts.

Armavir marz is in the west of Armenia, located in the Ararat valley between Ararat and Aragats mountains and bordering Turkey along the Araz river. Armavir is home to the Holy City of Etchmiadzin, the center of the Armenian Apostolic Church and the residence of Katolikos, the head of the Church. Other famous sites here are Zvartnots cathedral, the Sardarapat battle monument, fortress of Aragats and the early Iron Age site/museum of Metsamor.

The dispute arose at the revision of the Armenian-Georgian border map. It was found out that 6 km south-west from Djiliza village, situated in the Lori region of Armenia, the Armenian monastery remains within the Georgian borders. The problem was passed to the Armenian-Georgian intergovernmental committee, but was not solved for a long time.

Armenian organization, studying architecture of Armenian memorials, RAA, has submitted to the parties a historical document – the border map of 1929. According to the map, the border between Armenia and Georgia is totally different than on later maps of the Stalin’s time. According to the map, the Khorakert monastery was located on the territory of the Eastern Armenia. It is situated in the forest on the western slope of the Lalvar mountain. The main church of Khorakert was errected in 1260 and has a cupola hall. The vestibule was built in 1252 by Stepanos, the son of some Hovanes Karnetsi.  

A few kilometers from Khorakert there’s another medieval Armenian temple, Khuchap monastery, also dated XIII century. It is situated near the border village Privolnoe of the Lori region of Armenia. During the remapping, the Khorakert’s destiny was awaiting for this monastery, situated between Privolnoe and Akhkerpi village, earlier inhabited by Armenians, but the problem was solved: Armenia and Georgia have managed to come to the mutual agreement to leave the Khuchap monastery within the Armenian borders. The official Yerevan has given yet no comment to this decision.

There are many unsolved border disputes and problems with cultural monuments of one country within borders of another in Transcaucasia. There are many Armenian temples on the territory of Georgia and Azerbaijan, which are in a very poor condition. 35% of the Gerogian – Azerbaijanian border is still not agreed upon, including the well-known David Garedji Georgian monastery complex.

This fortress was a family estate of Pahlavuni dukes. Supposedely the castle was built in the VII^th century by the Kamsarakans, an Armenian noble family. Later the castle passed into the hands of a celebrated Armenian commander Vaghram Pahlavuni. Still later Bagratuni brothers, Armenia rulers of tha time, bought Amberd from Pahlavuni and made it the main advanced post fortress of their kingdom. The fortress fell in the XIII^th century under attack of the Mongols, who burnt everything that could burn and destroyed many stone structures.

The fortress was errected on the cape in the junction point of two rivers. Amberd’s impregnable walls are assembled of big basalt blocks. Their only decoration were plates of highly glazed pottery, which were built into the stones under the merlons of the turrets. According to the legend these plates were striking the evil eye of a stranger with their glitter.  

The water supply was well considered and reliably planned. Water was coming from mountain springs upper in the mountains. There are water collection systems with dams that were accumulating water of melting snows and supplied the fortress with it. In case of siege the fortress had two big water reservoirs. And in case of emergency the fortress inhabitants could use a secret underground passage that leads to the Amberd river.

In 1929 archaeologists discovered a bathhouse in the Amberd castle. It consisted of two medium-size rooms. Hot air was arriving to a small room under the stone plates to warm the walls, and when cooled, going out by clay tubes. One of the bathrooms had a water reservoir – a prototype of a stone bath, where hot and cold water was arriving by separate tubes from an external water supply system.

In 1026 by order of the celebrated Armenian commander Vaghram Pahlavuni one of the most refined Armenian churches was built near the castle.

Excavations discovered many artefacts, brought to Armenia from many other countries, bith Western and Eastern. Bronze lamps, incense-burners, mortars, wrecks of earthenware,  toilet bottles, expensive bowls, decorated dishes and jugs.